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a#linux #cli
A list of command line tools to use in linux
ohmyposh
tmux
bat - cat with highlight
difftastic - better diff
gdu - ncdu for ssds (disk space analyser)
zoxide - modern cd
fd - find alternative
rg - ripgrep (grep)
fzf - fuzzy finder
jless - json viewer with mouse folding
dra - download and install release assets
lazygit - git TUI
lazydocker - docker TUI
yazi - file manager with image preview
zellij - better tmux / screen
starship - cross shell prompt config
task, a Makefile alternative
hyperfine, a benchmark tool
vegeta, a load testing tool
sd, a better, more intuitive sed
There’s also the JSON trinity:
jq, the well know JSON processor
jc, convert the output of many CLI tools to JSON
gron, make JSON greppable
For python:
uv instead of conda/pip
thefuck for screwing up commands
lazygit
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Firefox Browser
OneDrive
Raycast
Latest
Code
App Cleaner
Obsidian (duh)
Camera Preview - App Store Capture Photos
PDFGear Free PDF Editor
TransNomino - File Renamer
XNip - Screenshot Tool
Pandan Time Tracker
Bartender:
```
License Name: Vuong Hoang
GAXAE-F9ASD-Q34B4-575SQ-W7WXH-J6TKM-D7ZBX-WC4XJ-A9KQB-PKWV7-LHGNZ-Z5L7A-4GFDR-RAWP5-5RSXV-LA
```
Dropover
Clop
IINA Media Player
Pika Color Picker
Lyn Image Viewer
#apps
#software
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Battery bank ic boards ip2368 with bms
Can parallel a load inverter with usb charger
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~~Security Cameras~~
~~SpaceMouse~~
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 Hello Victor Nguyen,
Thank you for shopping with us. We’ll send a confirmation once your items have shipped. Your order details are indicated below. If you would like to view the status of your order or make any changes to it, please visit Your Orders on Amazon.com.
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Bandsaw Blade Rubber Wheels
O-Ring for Key Cutter
#tools
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Sim Rig
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Ratios:
1.2 L of Water (5.1 cups)
240 ml Sodium Sulfate (1 cup)
60 ml Table Salt NaCl (1/4 cup)
20 ml (4 tsp) Xanthan Gum
Boil until Jell-O (30 mins?)≥≥
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1 liter water
100 g citric acid
40 g washing soda or 63 g baking soda
To turn your soak into a professional-grade "super chelator," you can add specific boosters that improve penetration, speed up the chemical reaction, or prevent the solution from getting "tired."
1. Sodium Gluconate (The Synergy Booster)
Adding **Sodium Gluconate** creates a "triple-threat" chelating system. While EDTA and Citrate work at neutral pH, Gluconate is exceptionally effective at holding iron in solution even as the pH fluctuates. This prevents the rust you just dissolved from "re-depositing" back onto the part.
- **Amount:** 10–20g per liter.
2. Ascorbic Acid (The "Iron Reducer")
Rust is Iron(III), which is hard to dissolve. **Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)** acts as a reducing agent that converts Iron(III) into Iron(II). Iron(II) is much more soluble and "pre-chelated," making it significantly easier for your EDTA and Citrate to grab and pull away.
- **Note:** This will lower the pH, so you may need to add a pinch of baking soda to bring it back to neutral.
3. Triethanolamine (TEA) (The Corrosion Guard)
TEA is a common additive in industrial rust removers like Evapo-Rust. It serves two purposes:
- **pH Stabilizer:** It keeps the solution alkaline (around pH 8–9), where EDTA is most powerful.
- **Flash Rust Inhibitor:** It leaves a microscopic film on the metal that prevents it from rusting the second you take it out of the bath.
- **Amount:** 1–2% of the total volume.
4. Isopropyl Alcohol (The Penetrant)
If your item has tight crevices, bolts, or textured surfaces, adding a small amount of **70% or 91% Isopropyl Alcohol** lowers the surface tension of the water even further than soap alone. This allows the chelators to "wick" into microscopic cracks where rust is hiding.
- **Amount:** 5% of your total liquid volume.
5. Heat (The Speed Multiplier)
While not a chemical additive, **temperature** is the single most effective way to boost this mixture.
- Raising the temperature to **120°F–140°F (50°C–60°C)** can make the chelation process happen **2 to 4 times faster**. Use a cheap "crock pot" or a sous-vide immersion circulator to keep the bath warm.
Summary "Pro" Formula:
- **1L Water** (Distilled is best)
- **50g EDTA** (Chelator)
- **30g Sodium Citrate** (Chelator/Buffer)
- **10g Sodium Gluconate** (Synergy)
- **5g Ascorbic Acid** (Reductant)
- **1 drop Dish Soap** (Surfactant)
Would you like to know how to **test the pH** of your mixture to ensure it's safe for sensitive metals like **zinc or aluminum**?
EDTA?
-
### Full Suggested Final Concentrations for 1 L Soak
These are practical, balanced starting points based on your ingredients (scale/test and adjust pH to ~5–7.5 for best chelation + reduction). Total actives stay moderate (~10–20%) to avoid saturation issues.
- **Ascorbic acid**: 30–50 g (3–5%) — reduction of rust (Fe³⁺ → Fe²⁺).
- **Sodium citrate** (trisodium, anhydrous or adjust for dihydrate): 20–40 g (2–4%) — chelation + buffering.
- **Sodium gluconate** (or potassium if swapping): 20–50 g (2–5%) — strong iron chelation.
- **EDTA** (disodium or tetrasodium): 10–25 g (1–2.5%) — broad heavy metal chelation.
- **TEA** (triethanolamine): 10–20 g (1–2%) — pH buffer to ~6–7.5; add gradually while checking pH.
- **Surfactant** (e.g., coco glucoside, decyl glucoside, or mild dish soap): 1–5 mL (0.1–0.5%) — wetting/penetration.
- **Sodium silicate 40% solution**: **10–15 mL** (≈4–6 g active silicate) — corrosion inhibition + mild builder.
- **Water**: Balance to 1 L (use distilled/deionized if possible to minimize hard-water interference in LA).
- **Optional natural colorant** (from earlier): 0.1–0.5 g turmeric/curcumin extract or similar for subtle yellow tint.
### Mixing and Usage Notes
1. Dissolve solids in warm water (~40–50°C) first: ascorbic → citrate/gluconate/EDTA → TEA (slowly, monitor pH rise) → surfactant.
2. Add sodium silicate 40% last (it's alkaline) — stir well; it may slightly thicken or cloud temporarily but should clear.
3. Check/adjust final pH (strips or meter) to 5.5–7.5. If too high (TEA + silicate), add a bit more ascorbic acid; if too low, more TEA.
4. Soak rusty tools 4–48 hours at room temp (or warm to 40–60°C for faster action). Agitate occasionally.
5. Post-soak: Rinse thoroughly with water, then IPA dip if desired for quick dry/no flash rust, then oil tools.
6. **Safety**: Still non-toxic overall (food-grade-ish levels), but wear gloves/eye protection—silicate can be mildly irritating in concentrate. No strong fumes.
This keeps the soak effective, safe, and greener than acid-based removers. If you notice gelling (rare at these low levels) or slower rust removal, reduce silicate to 5–10 mL. Share your exact amounts of the other ingredients or observed pH if you want more precise tweaks! Test on a scrap tool first.
### Suggested Concentrate Recipe (for Dilution to 1 L Final Soak)
Use **250 mL total water** as a safe starting point (4× concentrate). Scale down to 200 mL if you test and it dissolves fully.
- **Water**: 250 mL (warm to 40–60°C; distilled preferred).
- **Ascorbic acid**: 30–50 g — dissolve first (acidic, helps initial mixing).
- **Sodium citrate**: 20–40 g.
- **Sodium gluconate**: 20–50 g.
- **EDTA (disodium or tetrasodium)**: 10–25 g — add slowly after TEA/silicate for better solubility.
- **TEA (triethanolamine)**: 10–20 g — add next; raises pH, dramatically improves EDTA dissolution.
- **Sodium silicate 40% solution**: 10–15 mL — add near end; provides alkalinity and inhibition.
- **Surfactant** (coco glucoside or mild dish soap): 1–5 mL — last.
- **Optional colorant**: Dissolve in a bit of the water first.
**Mixing steps**:
1. Heat water to 40–60°C.
2. Dissolve ascorbic acid fully.
3. Add citrate, gluconate → stir until clear.
4. Add TEA → pH rises, solution warms/clears more.
5. Add EDTA slowly while stirring vigorously (it may clump initially but should dissolve as pH hits ~6–8).
6. Add silicate solution → may thicken slightly but should stay fluid.
7. Add surfactant and colorant.
8. Cool to room temp; check for clarity/no sediment. If thick, add 50–100 mL more water. If crystals form on standing, warm and stir again.
**Storage**: In a sealed bottle; stable for months if pH ~6–8. Shake before use.
**Dilution**: Add the entire concentrate to 750–800 mL water (to make 1 L total). Stir well. Final pH should settle ~5.5–7.5—test and adjust if needed (small extra ascorbic for lower, TEA for higher).
If you go below 200 mL water and hit issues (e.g., paste-like or undissolved EDTA), the fix is usually more water or extra TEA/silicate to boost pH/solubility. Test a small batch first—LA's room temp (~20–25°C) helps, but warm mixing is key.
If you share your exact target amounts for each ingredient, I can calculate a more precise minimum water volume!
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Salt gels with glycerin
Add salt to sanitizer to remove glycerin
Will need to mix gel and liquid to extract alcohol
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Final solution will be 1ml of preservative to 1l of target liquid will result in 150ppm Sodium Benzoate and 250ppm of Potassium Sorbate
15g of sodium benzoate
25g of potassium sorbate
100ml of solution
#chemistry #gardening
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NHiL Recipe
KHCO3 - 32
Sulfer - 16
PineChar 5
Commercial Lamp Black - 1
Xoltri
KHCO3 - 4
S - 2
Pine Char .5
Veg Oil LB. .25
---
Combustible Recipe
KNO3 5.9 grams
Sulfur 4.8 grams
Charcoal 1.3 grams
Lampblack .4 grams
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Yield: 1 loaf
For the Starter
  • ⅓cup/45 grams bread flour
  • ½cup/120 milliliters whole milk
For the Dough
  • 2½cups/325 grams bread flour
  • ¼cup/60 grams sugar
  • 2teaspoons/7 grams active dry yeast (1 packet)
  • 1teaspoon/4 grams salt
  • 1egg
  • ½cup/120 milliliters warm whole milk, plus extra for brushing on the unbaked loaf
  • 4tablespoons/60 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened at room temperature, plus extra for buttering bowls and pan
From <https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1016275-japanese-milk-bread>
1. Step 1
Make the starter: In a small heavy pot, whisk flour, milk and ½ cup water (120 milliliters) together until smooth. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring often, until thickened but still pourable, about 10 minutes (it will thicken more as it cools).  it’s ready, the spoon will leave tracks on the bottom of the pot. Scrape into a measuring cup and lightly cover the surface with plastic wrap. Set aside to cool to room temperature. (You will have about 1 cup starter; see note below.)
2. Step 2
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough ho ok, combine the flour, sugar, yeast and salt and mix for a few seconds, just until evenly combined.
3. Step 3
Add egg, milk and ½ cup starter. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead 5 minutes.
4. Step 4
Add soft butter and knead another 10 to 12 minutes (it will take a few minutes for butter to be incorporated), until the dough is smooth and springy and just a bit tacky.
5. Step 5
Lightly butter the inside of a bowl. Use your hands to lift dough out of mixer bowl, shape into a ball and place in prepared bowl. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes.
6. Step 6
Punch the dough down and use your hands to scoop it out onto a surface. Using a bench scraper or a large knife, cut dough in half. Lightly form each half into a ball, cover again and let rise 15 minutes.
7. Step 7
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. In the meantime, generously butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
8. Step 8
Using a rolling pin, gently roll out one dough ball into a thick oval. (By this time, the dough should be moist and no longer sticky. You probably will not need to flour the surface, but you may want to flour the pin.) First roll away from your body, then pull in, until the oval is about 12 inches long and 6 inches across.
9. Step 9
Fold the top 3 inches of the oval down, then fold the bottom 3 inches of the oval up, making a rough square. Starting from the right edge of the square, roll up the dough into a fat log, pick it up and smooth the top with your hands. Place the log in the buttered pan, seam side down and crosswise, nestling it near one end of the pan. Repeat with the other dough ball, placing it near the other end of the pan.
10. Step 10
Cover and let rest 30 to 40 minutes more, until the risen dough is peeking over the edge of the pan and the dough logs are meeting in the center. Brush the tops with milk and bake on the bottom shelf of the oven until golden brown and puffed, 35 to 40 minutes.
11. Step 11
Let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack and let cool at least 1 hour, to let the crust soften and keep the crumb lofty. (If cut too soon, the air bubbles trapped in the bread will deflate.)
Tip
• The starter recipe produces enough to bake 2 loaves, because it’s difficult to cook a smaller amount. Discard the extra starter, or double the dough recipe and bake 2 loaves.
From <https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1016275-japanese-milk-bread>
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1000 g White Flour
640 g Water (64% Hydration)
16 g Salt (1.6%-2% salt)
30g Olive Oil (3%)
14g Dry Yeast (1.2%)
Put yeast in room temp water.
Add flour.  Add salt.
Mix thoroughly, get it all mixed.
8 Minutes kneading on UNFLOURED SURFACE
Use circular motions, away then back up.  Don't press into surface.
Dust top, put in bowl, rest 1 hour
Divide (if necessary)
Turn over flour side down on LIGHTLY dusted surface and fold edges from outside to inside and across sticky side.
Dust top, rest 15 minutes.
Turn over flour side down, and punch and shape.
Dust top,
1 Hour Rest / Rise
Preheat oven so it will be ready after 1 hour.
Boil water to steam
40 Minutes bake at 400F
#cooking #bread #recipes
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1 part rice
7 parts water
Instapot porridge
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From Rick Bayless
### INGREDIENTS
- 3 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
- 5 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1/2 medium onion, cut into ¼-inch slices
- 1 large carrot, peeled (if you wish) and cut into ¼-inch slices on the bias
- 6 to 8 large or 12 medium [jalapeno chiles](https://www.rickbayless.com/ingredient/jalapeno-chiles/)
- 1 cup vinegar (both distilled white and apple cider vinegar are common in Mexico)
- 2 or 3 bay leaves
- About 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
- About 1 teaspoon dried mixed hierbas de olor (typically thyme, marjoram and/or oregano)
- A generous teaspoon salt
### INSTRUCTIONS
In a large (4-quart) saucepan, heat the oil over medium. When hot, add the garlic cloves and onion. Cook, stirring regularly, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients, along with 1 cup water. Bring to a simmer, partially cover and simmer, stirring from time to time, until the carrots are crisp-tender and the jalapeños have turned olive-green, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if necessary. Pour into a heat-proof storage container and cool. Cover and refrigerate for a day before using. They will keep for months refrigerated in a sealed container.
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By volume:
2 Parts Freeze Dried Chives
2 Parts Freeze Dried Shallots
2 Parts Whole Green Peppercorns
1 Part Dried Minced Garlic
1 Part Green Chile Flake
#cooking #recipes
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Melt butter in non-stick pan
1/3 cup flour
One egg
1/2 cup milk.
Dash salt
Dash Sugar
Mix flour an egg and a bit of milk into thick paste
Then add milk to watery consistency.
Add melted butter.
Pour small serving into corner of nonstick and move around.
#recipes
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Sous Vide Stew Meat Times and Temperatures
- Tender Steak
- Medium-Rare: 131°F for 36 to 60 Hours (55.0ºC)
- Medium: 140°F for 36 to 60 Hours (60.0ºC)
- Braise-Like
- Firm but Shreddable: 156°F for 18 to 24 Hours (68.9ºC)
- More Fall Apart: 165°F for 18 to 24 Hours (73.9ºC)
- Really Fall Apart: 176°F for 12 to 18 Hours (80.0ºC)
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At 135°F (57°C), brisket will never achieve the fall-apart texture of a traditionally barbecued brisket. Instead, it will soften while retaining its structure. After 12 hours, it's still quite tough. After 24, it's as tender as a New York strip steak. After 36 hours, it's even more tender, and, by 72 hours, you'll have brisket that can be cut with a spoon, while still giving you a meaty bite and juicy texture.
At 145°F (63°C), the meat will just barely start to separate into a traditional brisket grain, but it will be a little drier than it is at 135°F. This is sort of a temperature dead zone for me: too cool to significantly break down muscle fibers to the point that they shred like traditional brisket, but hot enough that the meat will dry out as it cooks.
At 155°F (68°C), we get much better results than at 145°F. Yes, the brisket will expel a lot of moisture as it cooks, but what it loses in water it gains in tenderness and moisture, in the form of more connective tissue breaking down and fat rendering. For me, 155°F for between 24 and 36 hours is ideal.
#sousvide #recipes #brisket
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To Cook: Set your precision cooker to 165°F (74°C) for more traditionally textured pulled pork, or 145°F (63°C) for sliceable but tender pork. When the bath is at temperature, add sealed bag with pork and cover with foil or plastic wrap. Allow to cook for 18 to 24 hours. After this stage, pork can be refrigerated for up to 1 week before continuing.
From <[https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/07/sous-vide-barbecue-pulled-pork-shoulder-recipe.html](https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/07/sous-vide-barbecue-pulled-pork-shoulder-recipe.html)>
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Extra Meaty: 145°F (63°C) for 36 Hours
  Low and slow = extra meaty and tender.
          At this low temperature, ribs retain plenty of moisture as they tenderize. The result is an extra-meaty rib that has the texture of a moist pork chop, but is still tender to the tooth. It pulls away from the bones nicely with just a little tug. I've never gotten meat with this texture using more traditional means of cooking, so if you really want to see what sous vide can do, this is the way to go.
Traditional Barbecue–Style Texture: 165°F (74°C) for 12 Hours
  Relatively hot and fast = traditional barbecue texture.
          At 165°F (74°C), you end up with meat that's a little more loose and shreds more easily, though it's by no means dry. This is meat that pulls off the bone and almost melts on your tongue, washing it with porky flavor and leaving behind shreds with a more significant chew. The texture is very much like that of traditional barbecue, though a little bit moister.
          You can extrapolate from these two temperatures and timings to figure out what other combinations in between will yield. Cooking at 152°F (67°C) for 24 hours was a close runner-up, resulting in a texture that's a little more tender than the 145°F ribs, but a little juicier than the 165°F ones.
          So, while ribs cooked at 145°F will take about three times as long to tenderize as ribs cooked at 165°F, they'll end up with a meatier, more succulent texture that eats almost like an extra-tender steak. Ribs cooked at a higher temperature will have a more traditional barbecue rib texture, with well-rendered fat and meat that shreds as you eat it.
For Extra-Juicy Ribs, Turn to Salt!
          With temperature and timing addressed, I turned to the next question: the rub. I mixed together a basic spice rub using our guide to spice rubs as a template, adjusting the flavors until I got something I was happy with. I ended up with a combination of paprika, mustard seed, black pepper, garlic powder, dried oregano, coriander seed, and red pepper flakes, along with brown sugar for sweetness.
          A couple of questions came up immediately. Some sous vide recipes recommend against adding spice rubs to the bag as the meat cooks, because they can alter the flavor in a negative way. I have never found this to be the case, whether I'm cooking a steak, vegetables, or ribs. Spice rubs work just fine in sous vide bags.
          The other, more important question was that of salt. Specifically, when and how much to add. Salt can have a profound effect on the texture and flavor of meat proteins. As salt sits in contact with meat, it will dissolve some muscle proteins, which in turn helps the meat retain moisture better. That's the reason a ham has that particular juicy and tender texture—which is great in ham, but not always desirable in barbecue. I tried cooking a few different sets of ribs side by side.
From <https://www.seriouseats.com/2015/09/the-food-lab-complete-guide-sous-vide-pork-ribs.html>
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```
docker run -v my-jenkins-volume:/data --name helper busybox true
docker cp . helper:/data
docker rm helper
```
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Bourbon and a splash of amaretto = The Boss. 4 stars
#drinks
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## Lemon Super Juice
30g lemon peel
30g sugar
30g acid (27 citric, 3 malic)
1g sea salt
500ml water
Ratio Recipe:
1 part lemon peel
1 part sugar
1 part acid (.9 part citric, .1 part malic)
.03 part sea salt
16.67 part water
add the rest of the juice
## Lime Super Juice
30g lime peel (avoid pith)
30g sugar
36g acid (24 citric, 12g malic)
1g sea salt
500ml water
Add peel, sugar, acids and salt
Rest
Blend with water
Strain, bottle
#drinks #food #superjuice
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1 Egg
1.5 oz Spirit (Dark Rum usually)
.5 oz Amontillado Sherry
1 oz Rich Demerara Syrup
2 oz Half and Half or Non Dairy Creamer
Grated Nutmeg
- 2 large eggs
- 3 oz/90 ml (by volume) or 75 grams (by weight) superfine or baker’s sugar
- 2 oz/60 ml añejo tequila
- 2½ oz/75 ml Amontillado sherry
- 6 oz/180 ml whole milk
- 4 oz/120 ml heavy cream
#drinks
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```
Export-WindowsDriver -Online -Destination d:\drivers
```
This powershell command will back up all existing drivers to  destination path.
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Linux backups are using restic / autorestic and systemd agents.
Backups configs stored at /srv/backups
#it #backups #restic #autorestic
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If Inventor refused to run 3D accelerated hardware when virtualized, there is a file in:
C:\Program Files\Autodesk\Inventor 2022\Configuration\hardwarelibrarydm.xml
The features are numbers in there-- limit of 10 sets software graphics decoding only.
Change them to 50 and it will allow hardware acceleration.
#software #cad
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ESH Home
Garage - 10GB / POE Dual
UDM SE for POE,
UCI Cable Internet, - 7771347
Pro HD 24 or POE
Media Room - SFP Uplink, POE
PRO HD 24 POE
Game Room - POE Powered
Flex 2.5G POE
Office 1 - 10 GB
Flex XG 10G GbE - 6788535
Office 2 - POE,
Flex 2.5G POE with 210W AC Adapter
NH3
Rack - 10GB, POE
PRO HD 24 POE
Office - 10GB Uplink
Flex XG 10GBE - 6788535
Total
UCI - 1
PRO 24 HD - 3
Flex XG 10 - 2
Flex 2.5 POE - 2
ANA
Rack - 10GB
#switches #routers #network
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| | | | | | |
| -------------------------- | --------------------- | ------------------- | ------ | --------- | ------- |
| Map | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Private Subnet | Location | Segment | Device | Mask | Bitmask |
| 1. | 1. | 1. | 0 | 255.0.0.0 | 8 |
| | | | | | |
| Location Octet | Description | | | | |
| 0 | Esteban | | | | |
| 100 | Phase Final NH3 | | | | |
| 200 | Anaheim Colo | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Segment Octet | Description | VLAN | | | |
| 0 | Default | 1 | | | |
| 19-Oct | Userland | 10 | | | |
| 20-29 | Internal WIFI | 20 | | | |
| 30-39 | Guest | 30 | | | |
| 40-49 | Network Services / AD | 40 | | | |
| 50-59 | Services / VMs | 50 | | | |
| 60-69 | DMZ | 60 | | | |
| 70-79 | VOIP | 70 | | | |
| 80-89 | Remote Access | 80 | | | |
| 90-99 | IoT / Restricted | 90 | | | |
| 250-254 | Management | 250 | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Device Octet | Description | Notes | | | |
| 0-149 | Static | | | | |
| 150-250 | DHCP | Except for Userland | | | |
| 50-250 | DHCP | Userland | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Esteban Map | | | | | |
| 10.250.0.1 | FW | | | | |
| Esteban - 10.0.0.0/16 | | | | | |
| 10.0.0.0/20 | | | | | |
| 10.0.0.0/24 Network | | | | | |
| 10.0.1.0/24 Clients | | | | | |
| 10.0.5.0/24 IoT | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| PhaseFinal - 10.100.0.0/16 | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Anaheim Colo - 10.25 | | | | | |
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We are forwarding email through smtp2go service.
www.smtp2go.com
We also use sendgrid with API.
Credentials are in vaultwarden.
#it #networking #smtp #email
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Clipped from: [https://grabcad.com/questions/how-i-can-activate-real-view-graphics-in-my-solidworks-2015-x-64-bit-sp2-my-operating-system-is-windows-7-x-64-bit-sp1-and-my-graphics-card-is-amd-radeon-hd-7500m-7600m-series-i-have-already-tried-realhack-3-9-1-but-it-is-not-working](https://grabcad.com/questions/how-i-can-activate-real-view-graphics-in-my-solidworks-2015-x-64-bit-sp2-my-operating-system-is-windows-7-x-64-bit-sp1-and-my-graphics-card-is-amd-radeon-hd-7500m-7600m-series-i-have-already-tried-realhack-3-9-1-but-it-is-not-working)
[Comments 1](https://grabcad.com/questions/how-i-can-activate-real-view-graphics-in-my-solidworks-2015-x-64-bit-sp2-my-operating-system-is-windows-7-x-64-bit-sp1-and-my-graphics-card-is-amd-radeon-hd-7500m-7600m-series-i-have-already-tried-realhack-3-9-1-but-it-is-not-working#)
### 46 Answers
[![Leucetius](data:image/png;base64,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)](https://grabcad.com/leucetius)
[Leucetius](https://grabcad.com/leucetius)
Answered on 5 Jun, 2015 10:34 AM
1.) Open up the registry editor (Start Button -> Run... -> "regedit")
2.) Navigate to "HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\SolidWorks\SOLIDWORKS 2015\Performance\Graphics\Hardware\Current"
3.) On the right side doubleclick on "Renderer"
4.) copy (Strg+C) the Value
Since I have a GeForce Card mine is "GeForce GTX 970/PCIe/SSE2". Yours will be different, mentioning an AMD card. It is important to copy ALL what's in value.
5.) Navigate to "HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\SolidWorks\SOLIDWORKS 2015\Performance\Graphics\Hardware\Gl2Shaders\R420"
6.) On the left side (the treeview) rightclick on "R420" and choose "New / Key"
7.) Rename the new key with the copied value (Strg+V)
8.) Click another Key and back to your newly created to make sure you are editing the right values. The right side should be empty but an entry (Default) whose data is "value not set"
9.) rightclick in the right side and create "New / DWORD (32-bit) Value"
10.) Rename the DWORD to "Workarounds" and, after that, doublecklick it
11.) Leave the "Base" to "Hexadecimal" and enter 30008 into the field "Value data"
12.) Leave the Registryeditor open and start Solidworks. Create a new part / open an old one and try to enable RealView.
If RealView is still greyed out:
13.) Close Solidworks and go back to the registry editor. Doubleclick the DWORD "Workarounds" and change the "Value data" to 30408
14.) Fire up Solidworks and try again to activate Realview (Part or Assembly open)
If RealView is STILL greyed out:
15.) Freakout - I can't help you mate.
Edit: Reported working solution. And for SOME who keep telling "You need a Quattro card": look at the appended screenshot. RealView with all bells and whistles with an GTX 970.
Workarounds 32408 for enhanced graphics options
From <[https://grabcad.com/questions/solidworks-2019-realview-hack](https://grabcad.com/questions/solidworks-2019-realview-hack)>
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Release spam by going to:
surefire.avanan.net
Then check microsoft quarantine at
security.microsoft.com
For SureFire emails.
#surefire #smpt #emails #spam #phishing #security
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We install tactical RMM on a Mac using this github script.
Relevent URLS:
https://rmm-mesh.phasefinal.com
https://github.com/mattchis/MacRMM-Script
#tacticalrmm #networking #remoteaccess
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The Fryer is a Sinumerik 840D Control
#machining
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Probe is tool 20
Manually set tool to 20
Insert Tool
Do Probing
Physically Unload Tool
Unload tool in the machine
Hit Reset
Go to another tool
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1. Go to tools page and set up tools.  Diameter and negative Z values are important.  Set up number of cutters as well.
2. Go to tool calibration--- hit cycle start and then feed stop.  Verify that Z to go is reasonable.
3. Allow tool to touch-- if it does not touch, go to Z offset and increase Z length silghtly.
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1. Chuck up part
2. Jog to face and set G54 Offset
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2/19/24
Weight 190
Chest 39
Neck 16
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Yes, a wrong step or wrong link might lead to your scope being unusable, and you'd need to send it back to the factory for repair.
That being said... has anyone actually BRICKED their scope yet? I don't remember of one but eh... it's quite a long thread.
Also, I've attached the file all inside a zip. The steps are basically :
1) Extract all files (including the .lnk) to the root of your usb drive
2) From the scope's front panel, press Utility ->File Explorer -> Press to go to: <USB Drive label>(usually "usb")
3) From the drop down, scroll to the v241_link_install.cab to select
4) Press Load file
The scope will ask for your confirmation and then it will load/update and reboot.
FYI, my link file is :
160#\Secure\infiniiVision\infiniivisionLauncher.exe -l DIS -l MSO --perf -l MEMUP -l SCPIPS -l CABLE -l SGMC -l FLEXC -l TOM -l BW20 -l ADVMATH -l EMBD -l EDK -l VID
the other cab uninstall the link file and restores your previous setting.
From <https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/dsox2000-and-3000-series-licence-have-anyone-tried-to-hack-that-scope/1525/>
Ok, so I assume the minimal steps are:
0) Install correct Firmware version first (i.e. in this case 2.43)
1) Download Safar's patched_nk_bin.comp file and copy to a USB stick and plug in.
2) Telnet into the scope.
3) Login infiniivision / skywalker1977
4) processmgr kill infiniivisionlauncher.exe
5) \windows\loadP500Flash -u ceImage1 \usb\patched_nk.bin.comp
6) Create a file on the USB stick called infiniivision.lnk with contents (e.g.) "88#infiniivisionLauncher.exe -l MSO -l BW20 -l DIS -l PLUS -l SCPIPS -l VID -l CABLE --perf"
7a) delete (or rename) any other lnk in \secure\startup folder. Should be only one file with lnk extension here.
7b) copy \usb\infiniivision.lnk to \secure\startup
8 ) reboot and good to go
From <https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/dsox2000-and-3000-series-licence-have-anyone-tried-to-hack-that-scope/1875/>